Wednesday, October 30, 2024
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This vibrant Darlo area serve basic, fresh price and candlelit feelings


From day to evening, cafe-restaurant-bar Theeca provides straightforward and super-fresh seasonal meals.

Lenny Ann Low

Defining Theeca, a coffee shop, dining establishment and white wine bar in a jacaranda-lined Darlinghurst backstreet, is difficult.

It is partially outside, with wood tables on a balcony bordered by sandstone structures and rock columns, raising visions of a tiny European streetscape.

Roast barramundi.
Roast barramundi.Janie Barrett

Here, breakfasters consume buttermilk pancakes, truffle mushroom omelettes and a baked fish plate with black rice salad, amongst a boating of various other breakfast meals.

They beverage strawberry bomb smoothie mixes (made with coconut milk, vanilla and collagen) and peach oolong tea prior to taking into consideration a glass of cooled merlot as the clock ticks right into mid-morning.

Theeca’s tiramisu resembles a cloud dropped onto home plate and rolled gladly about in spirits and dairy products.

At evening, these tables are lit by flickering candle lights under the reduced tree branches. Special long table supper reservations bring bed linen table linens and containers of tulips, sunflowers, sissies and lilies simply metres from Oxford Street’s juiced-up holler.

Inside is various once again. A gently spacious cellar area is a low-lit dining-room of wood tables, home windows open up to the balcony and candlelight flickering throughout ceiling columns, stroking archways and restaurants’ faces.

Tonight, they chink glasses at 2 common tables while sharing olives, butterbean and garlic dip and Cantabrian anchovies.

Are we in Spain? Is this an Italian cellar dining establishment, bordered, as it is tonite, by lengthy shelfs of bottle, 2 document gamers and a substantial stereo? Why is the meal called Ted’s Flatbread, from Theeca’s advanced Mediterranean-Australian food selection, so wonderful? And that is Ted?

Theeca, which opened up in 2019, is a dining establishment and white wine bar possessed and run by Junsao Park, referred to as Lake, Eunseok Lee, referred to as Oscar, and Tacho Kang, cook and the initial proprietor, that is Ted.

The Paloma mocktail and Tommy’s margarita.
The Paloma mocktail and Tommy’s margarita.Janie Barrett

I might hug Ted for his flatbread alone. It is a crisp, gold, magnificently thick and salt-scattered accomplishment offered with whipped butter. But after that comes hen liver parfait offered with A.P Bakery sourdough and marinaded veggies.

Please order this parfait. Flocked with a wig of parsley, we swirl zesty tendrils of carrot and turnip via its dark pink creaminess with lustiness.

Another starter, the snapper crudo with finger lime and capers, is great. Accompanying it with a glass of Dormilona’s chenin blanc all-natural white wine from Margaret River, or a Paloma mocktail made with grapefruit and lime juice blended with syrup and carbonated water.

Theeca’s food selection is seasonal, so our joy at consuming tonight’s meatballs, ribboned by large swirls of pappardelle pasta spread with parmigiana and chilli oil, is currently a wonderful memory.

Ted’s flatbread.
Ted’s flatbread.Janie Barrett

Roasted barramundi with oxheart tomato, olives, capers and anchovy, is an essential though. Arriving in a folded up paper parcel reduced open theatrically at the table, it is fragrant and tender. Ted, if it’s you behind this wonder, understand it must never ever leave the food selection.

After some complication bordering a cheesecake treat, which becomes a plate of gruyere, blue cheese, lavosh, pear pieces and apple chutney (wonderful yet unanticipated), a tiramisu gets here.

Some tiramisus are prissy, and some are unrestrained jalopies that take off sidewards at the plain push of a spoon.

Theeca’s tiramisu resembles a cloud dropped onto home plate and rolled gladly about in spirits and dairy products. A shivering cocoa-dusted piece of extreme creaminess, it possesses eager coffee flavour in between beautiful mascarpone.

Photo: Janie Barrett

Ted, our love for you is solid.

Eunseok Lee claims Theeca is developing right into a red wine bar together with its food menus. “We want to establish ourselves as a casual wine bar with a full wine list for all tastes,” he claims. “We have 90 wines, but by the end of October we’ll have 100 in stock.”

Friday and Saturday function post-dinner DJ evenings with plastic rotated from a collection of 1000 documents. He likewise discusses the food selection’s motivation originates from Ted’s childhood years, when, as a young yet seriously unwell young boy, his family members concentrated on food to assist his health and wellness.

Theeca’s meals are motivated by the healthy and balanced food Ted’s mom and granny made him. “Beautiful, uncomplicated and super fresh. We want them to bring happiness because spreading love through our food service and our ambience is our ultimate goal.”

The low-down

Vibe: Inner eastern contemporary Australian food and white wine under trees in between sandstone structures or semi-underground by candlelight

Go- to dish: Chicken liver parfait with A.P Bakery sourdough and marinaded veggies

Cost: $130, plus beverages (for 2)

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