I discover that screw-capped reds, particularly fuller-bodied Australian shiraz and cabernet, age rather more slowly with screw caps, so why hassle cellaring screw-capped wines?
— T.M., Bondi Junction, NSW
I discover little distinction between wines aged with a screw cap and people below a great cork. But not all corks are good, and the incidence of cork-related oxidation and TCA taint is unacceptably excessive. If I had been a winemaker, I’d haven’t any hesitation in banning all corks.
Obviously, all wines are totally different: elements corresponding to grape selection, area, winemaker and winemaking methods lead to huge variations. It’s unattainable to say all wines will probably be higher below a screw cap, however for my cash, it’s manner forward of cork. I’ve opened many aged purple wines with screw caps (together with Moss Wood, Henschke, Penfolds and Cullen) they usually have aged very nicely. I agree that they are typically more energizing than cork-sealed wines, which isn’t any unhealthy factor to me, however others could disagree.
What I really like about mature purple wines is a mix of aged complexity together with a level of freshness. If you’ll be able to nonetheless style the fruit, in addition to the mellow bottle-aged traits, that is the place peak pleasure lies. So, I don’t agree that wines age too slowly below a screw cap, nor that there isn’t any level cellaring them on the idea they received’t change. It is true that, on common, wine will age extra slowly, and due to this fact for longer, below a screw cap, however it is because the typical consists of wines which have aged prematurely due to poor corks.
These days, winemakers have loads of alternative in wadding – the disc of silvery stuff beneath the aluminium cap – which makes the hermetic seal. Some let in a small, managed quantity of oxygen, as most corks do; others are much less air-permeable. Usually, the cheaper wines have a cap that allows extra air as a result of they aren’t meant for lengthy storage.
I as soon as met a winemaker from an Alsace vineyard who, when requested if his agency was contemplating screw caps, replied within the unfavorable, including, “Ah, but zee wines do not age under zee screw cap.” He had clearly by no means tasted a great, aged, screw-capped Australian riesling. There are lots round: riesling makers have been utilizing screw caps for the reason that 2000 classic.
Got a drinks query for Huon Hooke? thefullbottle@goodweekend.com.au
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